A visit to upstate New York and Vermont – Fort Ticonderoga Cannons

I’ve never seen so many cannons in one place. There are French cannons, English cannons, US cannons, Spanish cannons, Dutch cannons, Swedish cannons and cannons from other countries.

According to the fort’s website:

Fort Ticonderoga has over 100 cannons on site, representing the largest collection of 18th-century artillery in private hands in the Western Hemisphere. These guns were collected in the 20th century to be showcased in our museums and represent an unparalleled example of the gun founders’ art.



Taken with a Sony RX10 IV

A visit to upstate New York and Vermont – Overview and approaching the fort

Growing up in a not terribly well-off family in a village in the North of England, I used to read a lot. I would come across places with exotic sounding names like Kathmandu, Samarkand, Heliopolis, Philippines etc. Little did I know then that I would eventually visit many of these places and that I would be married for 43 years to a Filipina. For some reason I’d also heard about a place called Ticonderoga. Consequently, when I went to work for the United Nations in New York I wanted to visit the fort. Somehow 50 years passed and even though Fort Ticonderoga is not that far (about a four-hour drive) from where I live, I still hadn’t visited. I don’t have “bucket list”, but if I did Fort Ticonderoga would certainly be on it. However, I was beginning to think that I’d never get there.

Now I can cross it off the non-existent “bucket list”.

According to Wikipedia:

Fort Ticonderoga, formerly Fort Carillon, is a large 18th-century star fort built by the French at a narrows near the south end of Lake Champlain in northern New York. It was constructed between October 1755 and 1757 by French-Canadian military engineer Michel Chartier de Lotbinière, Marquis de Lotbinière during the action in the “North American theater” of the Seven Years’ War, known as the French and Indian War in America. The fort was of strategic importance during the 18th-century colonial conflicts between Great Britain and France, and again played an important role during the American Revolutionary War.

The site controlled a river portage alongside the mouth of the rapids-infested La Chute River, in the 3.5 miles (5.6 km) between Lake Champlain and Lake George. It was strategically placed for the trade routes between the British-controlled Hudson River Valley and the French-controlled Saint Lawrence River Valley.

The terrain amplified the importance of the site. Both lakes were long and narrow and oriented north–south, as were the many ridge lines of the Appalachian Mountains which extend as far south as Georgia. The mountains created nearly impassable terrains to the east and west of the Great Appalachian Valley that the site commanded.

The name “Ticonderoga” comes from the Iroquois word tekontaró:ken, meaning “it is at the junction of two waterways”.

During the 1758 Battle of Carillon, 4,000 French defenders were able to repel an attack by 16,000 British troops near the fort. In 1759, the British returned and drove a token French garrison from the fort. The British controlled the fort at the beginning of the Revolutionary War, but the Green Mountain Boys and other state militia under the command of Ethan Allen and Benedict Arnold captured it on May 10, 1775. Henry Knox led a party to transport many of the fort’s cannon to Boston to assist in the siege against the British, who evacuated the city in March 1776. The Americans held the fort until June 1777, when British forces under General John Burgoyne occupied high ground above it; the threat resulted in the Continental Army troops withdrawing from the fort and its surrounding defenses. The only direct attack on the fort during the Revolution took place in September 1777, when John Brown led 500 Americans in an unsuccessful attempt to capture it from about 100 British defenders.

The British abandoned the fort after the failure of the Saratoga campaign, and it ceased to be of military value after 1781. The United States allowed the fort to fall into ruin, and local residents stripped it of much of its usable materials. It was purchased by a private family in 1820 and became a stop on tourist routes of the area. Early in the 20th century, its private owners restored the fort. The Fort Ticonderoga Association now operates it as a tourist attraction, museum, and research center.

The pictures below show the approach to the fort featuring exterior shots.



Taken with a Sony RX10 IV

A visit to upstate New York and Vermont – Saratoga National Historical Park

The home page of the Park’s website contains the following:

A Crucial American Victory. Here in the autumn of 1777 American forces met, defeated and forced a major British army to surrender. This crucial American victory renewed patriots’ hopes for independence, secured essential foreign recognition and support, and forever changed the face of the world.

I very much agree. After the British defeat at Saratoga the war was no longer about the British vs. the American Patriots. With the entry of the French on the American side it was now the British vs. the Americans, the French, The Spanish, and the Dutch. And it was no longer limited to the East Coast of the US. The British were now fighting a global war.

I’d been to the battlefield before. Unfortunately, I chose a very gloomy, rainy day for my visit. The weather was so bad that I just shot around the battlefield and headed off home as quickly as possible. Since that day I’ve always thought that I must have missed a lot. Unfortunately, the truth of the matter is that there isn’t actually much to see. The visitor’s center is somewhat interesting, but other than that there’s just acres and acres of fields (luckily, they were full of flowers, which made them look quite pretty.); a few cannons; a few monuments (not many); and an old farmhouse. It would be a great place to walk your dog.



The next two pictures show views of the Hudson.


Next four pictures: Cannons





Kosciuszko monument. Tadeusz Kościuszko (born February 4, 1746, Mereczowszczyzna, Poland [now in Belarus]—died October 15, 1817, Solothurn, Switzerland) was a Polish army officer and statesman who gained fame both for his role in the American Revolution and for his leadership of a national insurrection in his homeland. For more information on Kosciuszko see here.


The inscription on the plaque reads:


THE UNKNOWN AMERICAN SOLDIERS
WHO PERISHED IN THE BATTLES OF
SARATOGA
SEPTEMBER 19 AND OCTOBER 7 1777
AND WHO WERE HERE BURIED IN UNMARKED
GRAVES
HELPED TO ASSURE THE TRIUMPH OF THE
WAR OF INDEPENDENCE
TO CREATE THE REPUBLIC OF THE
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
AND TO ESTABLISH LIBERTY THROUGHOUT
THE WORLD
IN HONOR OF THESE PATRIOTS
AND IN RECOGNITION OF THE
BICENTENNIAL OF THE BIRTH OF
GEORGE WASHINGTON
THIS MEMORIAL IS ERECTED

BY THE
DAUGHTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION
OF NEW YORK STATE
1951

This monument commemorates the actions of a man who was instrumental in the American victory here, but later became a traitor to the United States: the infamous Benedict Arnold. This monument is perhaps the most popular, unique, and controversial monument of the many placed here.

After he was wounded, General Arnold underwent surgery and after months of recuperation was assigned to command the repatriated capital city, Philadelphia, in June 1778. There, Arnold’s resentment of perceived mistreatment boiled over into rage against the United States. He secretly sought British support and shared military intelligence. Exposed as a traitor at West Point in 1780, he escaped.

No one in American history is as vilified for treason as Benedict Arnold. The “Boot Monument” is dedicated to this man who led Americans to victory in the Battles of Saratoga. The monument does not mention Arnold by name, but there are a few intricate details which often go unnoticed by passersby:

  1. A boot and a two-star epaulet are draped over a howitzer barrel to symbolize an individual with the rank of Major General who suffered a wound during a battle in this location.
  2. A Laurel leaf wreath sits atop the howitzer, an emblem which often resonates victory, power, and glory.
  3. The reverse of the monument is inscribed with the following quote: “In memory of the most brilliant soldier of the Continental Army who was desperately wounded on this spot, the sally port of Burgoyne’s great [western] redoubt 7th October 1777 winning for his countrymen the decisive battle of the American Revolution and for himself the rank of Major General.”

Arnold has always been a personal favorite of mine for two reasons: First, if he had died at Saratoga (as he almost did) he would have gone down in history as one of the US’s greatest heroes instead of as probably the country’s greatest villain. Second, I was always fascinated that he was a general on both sides in the same war.

The final pictures below show the Nielson House. The Saratoga National Historical Site describes it as follows:

Before and after the Battles of Saratoga John Neilson farmed these heights, located at Stop #2 along the park’s auto tour road. Today his restored home looks much as it did when Generals Arnold and Poor used it for quarters in 1777. This single-room house may be small, but the panoramic view from the porch is larger than life!

The Family. John Neilson (1753-1833) hailed from New Brunswick, New Jersey. Well-practiced at tree cutting and rail splitting, the teenager left his home behind in 1772 and, working his way up the Hudson River, eventually came to Stillwater, New York. There, he went to work for a local farmer, Abner Quitterfield (1732-1784). Two years later, in June 1774, he leased about 150 acres of land out of Great Lot 12 of the Saratoga Patent, from Albany merchant John Bleecker (that same day, Neilson sub-leased 52 acres of it to one Isaac German). Later, he leased about 100 acres in Great Lot 14 from Killian De Ridder, which included the ridge upon which the present house stands.

For more information on the house see here.




And yes, it really does have a terrific view (which I completely failed to capture).

Taken with a Sony RX10 IV.

John Kelvin Koelsch – Briarcliff Manor’s own medal of honor winner

If you live in, or near my village (Briarcliff Manor, N) and if you frequent the village Park, Law Park you’ve probably seen the monument above. You may also have read the text on the plaque below.

For those who haven’t, It briefly tells the story of Lt. John Kelvin Koelsch, a son of Briarcliff Manor who died October 16, 1951 in the line of duty at a Prisoner of War Camp in North Korea, during the Korean War. He was awarded the Medal of Honor posthumously, August 2, 1955.

But there are actually two stories. The first is Koelsch’s own amazing story of courage and tragedy. You’ll notice that he died in 1951, but the date on the plaque indicates what it was placed only in 2016. That is the second story: How the Village of Briarcliff Manor found out about Lt. Koelsch, established that he had been a Briarcliff resident and caused the monument to be erected.
John Kelvin Koelsch, was born on 22 December 1923 in London, England to a family where the father was an international banker. He came to Briarcliff when he was five and lived there with his parents, Mr. and Mrs. Henry A Koelsch, attending the Scarborough School. Travelling with his parents and brothers to England he studied at the Westminster School in London. 1)


Scarborough School, Briarcliff Manor, NY

In 1938, after the death of his father, he returned to Briarcliff where he took up residence with his Godfather, the late George Weeks of Braeview, Central Drive and Mrs. Weeks. He was resident off and on from 1928 to 1938 and from 1938-1945.1)

“Jack” Koelsch entered Princeton after Choate in September 1941. He joined the Navy as a torpedo bomber pilot during World War II, but returned to the University and graduated in 1949 — which was not unusual for members of his war-torn class.
He enlisted as an Aviation Cadet in the U.S. Naval Reserve on 14 September, 1942. He returned to Princeton for instruction under the College Training Program in May 1948 followed by an assignment in February 1949 with the Naval Aircraft Torpedo Unit, Quonset Point, Rhode Island. During the next few years, he served at Naval Air Stations at Fort Lauderdale, Florida, and Norfolk, Virginia, and subsequently flew with Composite Squadron 15 and Torpedo Squadrons 97 and 18. He became an accomplished torpedo bomber pilot, and was promoted to lieutenant (junior grade) on August 1, 1946. Despite first entering Princeton in September 1941, he returned to the university after the war, and finally graduated in 1949. Following flight training, he was commissioned an ensign in the Naval Reserve on 23 October 1944. After completing flight training, he served in the Pacific War. He was promoted to lieutenant (junior grade) 1 August 1946 and transferred to the U.S. Navy two months later on 11 October. 5)

Before he was called up for the Korean War, Koelsch, an English major, planned to go to law school. His sister-in-law, Francita Stuart Koelsch Ulmer, said his optimistic nature can be seen in the title of his thesis, “A Heritage of Hope,” on 19th-century British author George Meredith. “John was the most outstanding brother, a leader, a great athlete, and intellectually stimulating — someone men admired and followed,” says Ulmer.

After the outbreak of the Korean War, he joined Helicopter Squadron 1 (HU-1) at Miramar, California, in August 1950. As Officer in Charge of HU-1, Detachment 8, he joined USS Princeton (CV-37) in October for pilot rescue duty off the eastern coast of Korea. He served in Princeton until June 1951, when he joined Helicopter Squadron 2 (HU-2) for pilot rescue duty off Wonsan, Korea, then under naval blockade. He provided lifeguard duty for pilots who were downed either in coastal waters or over enemy-held territory. 5)


Helicopter similar to the one flown by Lt. Koelsch


USS Princeton (CV-37) underway in 1965

On 22 June, Koelsch and ADAN George M. Neal, his crewman, rescued Ens. Marvin D. Nelson, Jr., of Composite Squadron (VC) 3 from the waters of Wonsan Harbor, southeast of Yo-Do Island, after Nelson had bailed out of his crippled Vought F4U Corsair.

Late on the afternoon of 3 July 1951, Koelsch and then-AD3 Neal volunteered to fly deep into North Korea to rescue Capt. James V. Wilkins, USMC, who had bailed out of his burning Corsair after it had been hit by enemy fire during an armed reconnaissance mission about thirty-five miles southwest of Wonsan. Despite approaching darkness, worsening weather, and enemy ground fire, Lt. (j.g.) Koelsch located the downed pilot in the Anbyon Valley and began maneuvering to pick him up. Thick fog prevented the covering aircraft from protecting the unarmed helicopter, and intense enemy fire downed it as AD3 Neal was in the process of hoisting the injured man up. Koelsch, Wilkins and Neal evaded the enemy for nine days, only to be taken captive by North Korean forces before they could reach safety.
During his imprisonment, Koelsch steadfastly refused to submit to his captors in any manner although brutally beaten and abused; his fortitude and personal bravery inspired his fellow prisoners. He died of malnutrition and dysentery in a Communist prison camp on 16 October 1951. For his conspicuous gallantry, intrepidity, and heroic spirit of self-sacrifice, Lt. (j.g.) Koelsch was awarded the Medal of Honor, posthumously, on 3 August 1955.. 2)

His remains were subsequently returned to the United States where they were buried in Arlington National Cemetery, Arlington, Virginia. His grave can be found in section 30, grave 1123-RH.


Koelsch’s grave in Arlington Cemetery.

In 1955 Koelsch was posthumously awarded the Medal of Honor by President Eisenhower, the first helicopter pilot so honored. (AD3 Neal later received the Navy Cross). The citation notes his courage in combat and his bravery, fortitude, and consideration for his companions as a POW.


Navy Medal of Honor.

A Navy helicopter squadron assigned to Marine Corps Base Hawaii named their flight simulator building for Koelsch. Lt. Cmdr. Ike Stutts wrote: Because Koelsch was “a Navy helicopter pilot who rescued a Marine aviator, we thought there could be no better fit for the name of our building.” 2). A Navy destroyer escort was also named after him. The Korean War Memorial in Lasdon Park and Arboretum, in Katonah devotes an entire face to him.


USS Koelsch


Lasdon Korean War Memorial. Right face devoted to Lt.Koelsch

Perhaps most importantly his sacrifice and those of others led to the establishing of The Code of the United States Fighting Force on 17 August 1955. This code of conduct is an ethics guide and a United States Department of Defense directive consisting of six articles to members of the United States Armed Forces, addressing how they should act in combat when they must evade capture, resist while a prisoner or escape from the enemy. 4)

So why was there no monument to Koelsch in Briarcliff Manor until 2016?


Communique

During WWII Briarcliff Manor produced a series of newsletters entitled “Communique”. The series ran from December 1942- September 1945. The reason for its creation was given in the very first issue:

“Communique has been created by the people of Briarcliff Manor to provide their boys and girls who are serving in our nation’s armed forces news of the village that will be of interest or amusement and to provide an exchange for news between Manorites in the service.”

The BMSHS had acquired a set. Current BMSHS Executive Director, Karen Smith was organizing them and, in doing so had come across the name John Kelvin Koelsch and noted his connection to Briarcliff Manor. Later, she came across his story, looked for his name on the War Memorial in Law Park and noticed that it wasn’t there. She subsequently wrote (in an email dated Jul 10, 2013):

“…I checked out John Kelvin Koelsch online. Phil Reisman of the Journal News wrote a column on March 28, 2011 ‘Korean War Flier’s sacrifice finally gets its local due.’

The article reports information that is available on a couple of other sites, including Koelsch’s Congressional Medal of Honor citation.
But he also wrote as his concluding paragraph, ‘ My original column from 2009 reported that despite his heroism, Koelsch’s name could not be found at either the Korean War Memorial at the county-owned Lasdon Park in Somers or at the memorial outside Mount Pleasant Town Hall that includes all of New York’s Medal of Honor recipients going back to World War I’.

And as you can see, his name is missing from the Briarcliff Manor War Memorial (I just took the picture this morning).
Obviously something has to be done about this…we need to correct the historical record” 6)

It seems that this situation had occurred because Lt. Koelsch had enlisted in California and so the connection to Briarcliff Manor had been missed. However, after some research his long-time residency in Briarcliff Manor was confirmed.

“While he was at boarding school/college from ’38-’42 and then in the Navy, his legal residence was Scarborough. Upon his commissioning in November ’45 he was listed as a resident of Scarborough. His mother inherited property in LA and moved there in ’46 or ’47. Evidently, she regularly returned to the area from LA and always considered Scarborough as her home – according to a still-living sister-in-law. While Koelsch was still in the Navy doing research (’45-’48) he did switch his legal residence to LA circa ’47. He reentered Princeton in May ’48 and graduated in February ’49.” 3)

After that various actors e.g. the BMSHS; the Village authorities; the American Legion; concerned T etc.) were involved in an effort to ensure that Lt. Koelsch’s sacrifice was suitably recognized in the village. In 2016, this resulted in the installation of the memorial in Law Park. Although our village has named many roads for soldiers who have served/died in war, we have yet to see a road named in honor of Lt. Koelsch. This should be our next goal.

The full text of his Medal of Honor Citation reads:

“For conspicuous gallantry and intrepidity at the risk of his life above and beyond the call of duty while serving with a Navy helicopter rescue unit. Although darkness was rapidly approaching when information was received that a marine aviator had been shot down and was trapped by the enemy in mountainous terrain deep in hostile territory, Lt. (j.g.) Koelsch voluntarily flew a helicopter to the reported position of the downed airman in an attempt to effect a rescue. With an almost solid overcast concealing everything below the mountain peaks, he descended in his unarmed and vulnerable aircraft without the accompanying fighter escort to an extremely low altitude beneath the cloud level and began a systematic search. Despite the increasingly intense enemy fire, which struck his helicopter on one occasion, he persisted in his mission until he succeeded in locating the downed pilot, who was suffering from serious burns on the arms and legs. While the victim was being hoisted into the aircraft, it was struck again by an accurate burst of hostile fire and crashed on the side of the mountain. Quickly extricating his crewmen and the aviator from the wreckage, Lt. (j.g.) Koelsch led them from the vicinity in an effort to escape from hostile troops, evading the enemy forces for nine days and rendering such medical attention as possible to his severely burned companion until all were captured. Up to the time of his death while still a captive of the enemy, Lt. (j.g.) Koelsch steadfastly refused to aid his captors in any manner and served to inspire his fellow prisoners by his fortitude and consideration for others. His great personal valor and heroic spirit of self-sacrifice throughout sustain and enhance the finest traditions of the U.S. Naval Service.”

Sources:

  1. “Medal of Honor Posthumously Given to Briarcliff Flyer”. The Citizen Register, Ossining, Tuesday August 9, 1955
    Naval History and Heritage Command
  2. Email from Barry Bosac, May 28, 2015
  3. Code of the United States Fighting Force
  4. Princeton Alumni Weekly. The Medal of Honor by By Michael Goldstein ’78, Featured in the November 3, 2010 Issue
  5. Karen Smith email dated Jul 10, 2013
  6. Files at the Briarcliff Manor-Scarborough Historical Society, available for consultation at the Eileen O’Conner Weber Historical Center, 1 Library Road, Briarcliff Manor, NY (on the lower level of the library building).

Further Reading:
For an interesting, and colorful take on the Koelsch story see: The Badass Story of the First Helicopter Pilot to Receive the Medal of Honor, by Karl Smallwood, in Today I Found Out, November 18, 2018.

Around the neighborhood – Nelson Park – Cannons

I’ve passed this park many times in the car, and each time spotted the cannon that was close to the road. I kept meaning to go back one and to take some pictures. This time I was on foot and had a camera with me.

There are actually two cannons: one up by the road and a second one down it the park. Rob Yasinsac describes one of them as follows:

A genuine Hudson River artifact, it was cast at the West Point Foundry in Cold Spring, served in the Civil War, was partly buried at the Newburgh waterfront, relocated to Fort Ontario at Oswego, and brought to Ossining in the 1980s by Peter Carpenter (a high school boy scout at the time) to replace a World War I cannon that was melted down for scrap during World War II.

I’m not entirely sure which of the cannons he is describing, but I suspect it’s the one up by the road (first and second pictures in this post).

Taken with a Panasonic Lumix GF-1 and Lumix G Vario 45-150mm f4-5.6